Vertus during havest 27th September. Foto: Arnt Egil Nordlien

We entered the Champagne-region on Sunday the 26th of September in the middle of the harvest. Sunday was a quite nice day with a lot of sun, although not very warm. The region was in a hectic state and full of activity. We had an appointment late on the day in Vertus at Larmandier-Bernier. As we reach the house no one was home, but a little later they were passing by in a car and took us to the production-facilities where they where about to press the juice from todays grape-harvesting. The press was running while Pierre showed us the cellar. Then we were off to a short tasting with his wife Sophia. Now it should not come up as a surprise that I am a fan of Larmandier-

Berniers style of Champagne; being very dry and transparent mineral style. But there are two styles at Larmandier-Bernier. The mother of Pierre want a more classical, “sweeter” and more flowery style, while Pierre and his wife looks for a drier and more mineral style. So both styles are represented in the line-up.

 

When Pierre started taking over the production in the late 80’s, he gradually turned the

production-methods towards more ecologically grown vines. No pesticides have been used since 1990. Yields have been lowered to around 40-45 Hl/Ha. The latest news is that since 1999, all wines from Larmandier-Bernier have been fermented with the natural yeast. According to Sophia every vat is fermented separately. No one was mixed to give a faster start to slow ferminting vats. They had not experienced any problems of getting the wines dry enough for the style they wanted. Healthy and ecologically farmed vineyards are fundamental for reaching this goal according to Sophia. She also believed the separate vineyards showed more individuality and

Newly harvested chardonnay-grapes in Larmandier-Berniers cellar. Foto: Arnt Egil Nordlien

terroir after they had started with natural fermentation.

 

Blanc de blancs brut 1er cru NV

100% chardonnay. This is the basic champagne from Larmandier-Bernier (there is also a few bottles of a cheaper Champagne made which we did not taste). It is made in the more flowery style. It is also the only brut they make, the rest normally extra brut. All wines have very little dosage, if any. The nose is flowery, slightly elegant style. In the mouth round and pleasant mouthfeel. Well made, but nothing to remember.

 

1er cru Terre de Vertus NV (2000)

100% chardonnay. Vintage not mentioned on the front-label, but most often it is a single-vintage, like the 2000. This is the wine previously known as “Ne d’Une Terre de Vertus”, which means “Born of the earth of Vertus”. Vertus being an old word meaning “virtue”, it was meant as the name of an extreme wine of transparency derived from a single-vineyard. Later they shortened the name to “Terre de Vertus”, as they found the earlier name a bit gaudy. This is also the wine which carries a label with a picture of earth. The picture, shot by Sophia, is of the soil of this single-vineyard-wine. The wine is indeed a large step up in quality from the last wine, being drier and much more mineral and slightly earthy with a touch of underripe green flowers. It is a great little wine in it’s transparency, but is a style that may not suit everyone. For me this is a great bottle.

 

Vieilles Vignes Cramant Grand cru 1999

100% chardonnay. This is the second creation from Sophia and Pierre, first vintage being the 1990 (or 89; they can’t remember). It is made much in the same style as the “Terre de Vertus”, but from a single-plot selection of 80 year old vines from Cramant. It is a wine I have tasted in some vintages from the 94 and IMO is becoming only better with each vintage. Tasted after the “Terre de Vertus” it was quite easy to find the more clean mineral depth of this wine, deriving from the superior soil in Cramant. It is a more concentrated and buils with a more aggressive mousse. Strangely great glass now, but one that deserves more cellar-time. Great Champagne and price still not high.

 

Vintage 1997 1er cru

100% chardonnay. Blended 1/3 each from Cramant, Chouilly and Vertus. The vintage-wine is made in the more flowery style and is strangely enough more expensive than the VV Cramant. This style is more wanted in the region, explains Sophia. The wine is more flowery and fruity in the nose with a touch of nuts. Lighter in the mouth, fruity, but also this Champagne is very dry for the style and with a long lemony finish and good structure. But the depth of the two last wines is missing and it does not show the same character.

 

Coteaux Champenois 1er cru Vertus rouge pinot noir 2000

Vertus is historically known for producing red-wine from pinot noir. Larmandier-Bernier follows this tradition by making a very limited amount of this wine. The wine is a light and quite fruity pinot noir. A touch of some chalkiness but not the greatest depth. A nicely balanced little pinot noir with the acids giving structure and the tannins being mild. Not for aging. Interesting, but nothing more.

 

The next day the weather turned worse in the region as the harvest went on. Some skies in the morning turned cloudier and from the middle of the day; rain. We drove through much of the region but no more visits at wineries. As Clos des Goisses was passed I noticed harvest had started. This just a short time before the rain started. Two more notes:   Diebolt-Vallois Cramant Blanc de blancs brut 1985 Lightly golden colour. Complex nose of sweet mushrooms, forest-floor, flowers, coffee and chalk. Full-bodied and concentrated in the mouth. Typical mature

Clos de Goisses. Foto: Arnt Egil Nordlien

BdB-Champagne with coffee-flavours and chalk. But complex. Quite round acids and elegant. Good length. Great wine on top now and  a better bottle than the next one.

 

Diebolt-Vallois Cramant Blanc de blancs brut 1979

No degorgement-date on this bottle, according to the cork, not newly degorged. Colour is quite brownish yellow. Bubbles are very small. Nose have coffee, dark bread and some notes of mushrooms. Full-bodied and fully mature wine in the mouth. High acids shining a bit in the balance. Dry and coffee-flavoured fruit. Lacking some of the complexity of the 85. Starting to show some age in the finish. Perhaps better a few years ago. Still very good.