On September 22nd-2011 the second Meisterwerke der Mosel-tasting was held in Kurfürstliches palais in Trier. This was arranged for
the first time last year as a part of the 100 year-anniversary for VdP. Due to the success of this tasting VdP desided to do the
tasting again this year. 30 of VdPs Mosel-members where present with their 2010-lineup and also included was a bottle of an older
vintage. Due to the sheer number of wines available it was necessary to pick wines to try. Here is what we tasted:
Weingut von Hövel
Oberemmeler Hütte riesling kabinett 2010
Flowery, mineral nose with hints of apple-peel. Fine fruit in the mouth on this one. Flowery, mineral. Good acidity. The finish is
a bit hard and bitter. Good.
Scharzhofberger riesling kabinett 2010
More leafs, minerality and apples. Intense mouthfeel on this one. Appley fruit. Fine definition in the fruit. High acids and again
the finish is a bit hard and bitter. Better than the Hütte. Good.
Oberemmeler Hütte riesling spätlese 2010
Sweet flowers and citrus on the nose. Slate, minerality. Fullbodied and quite creamy '10-spätlese with fine acidity. Mineral,
flowery fruit. Quite nice style in the fruit. The finish shows some apple-peel and a light bitterness. Very good.
Scharzhofberger riesling spätlese 2010
Sour-sweet riesling on the nose. Lots of sweet notes, lots of acidic notes. Leafs, steel, minerality, sweet flowers. Slim style
in the mouth. Light Scharzie-style with fine mineral depth, steel, apples. Fine acidity and good finish. The better of the
spätlesen.
Oberemmeler Hütte riesling auslese 2010
Flowers, apple-peel and tobacco on the nose. Fine style. Hints of honey and botrytis. Quite sweet wine in the mouth. Again very
pretty fruit. Fine balance, sour-sweet style. Some mineral depth. Fine acidity and length. Great wine and the best from von Hövel
for me.
Scharzhofberger riesling auslese 2010
Mineral, steely nose. Hints of apples and leafs. Fullbodied and intense auslese in the mouth. Fine intensity and nerve in the fruit.
Citrusy long taste. High acids. Again slightly bitterness on the finish. Pretty, but I think I prefer the Hütte among the auslesen.
Weingut Egon Müller-Scharzhof
Scharzhof riesling 2010
Great nose. Snow, steel, minerality, leafs and apples. Surprisingly cool style. Slim and concentrated style in the mouth. Fine fruit
and great acidity. Good length. QbA does not get better than this.
Scharzhofberger riesling kabinett 2010
Quite equal to the QbA, but with more definition. Snow, steel, minerality on the nose. Again cool and slim style in the mouth with
intense fruit. Snowy, mineral style. Lots of steely Scharzhofberger-notes. Great acidity and length. Kabinett doe snot get much
better than this. Great.
Scharzhofberger riesling spätlese 2010
This has even more focus on the nose. Also more intense and slightly riper notes. But again mostly mineral, steely nose. Some flowers,
snow. Airy 2010 in the mouth. Still sweet and a touch of fatness. Very refreshing and high acids. Great fruit, great mineral
expression. Egon Müller really has managed to make a great selection in 2010. Young spätlese. Give this time. Great wine.
Scharzhofberger riesling auslese 1994
From another vintage with high acids. Steely, leafy nose. Some yellow fruits. Sweet and intense riesling in the mouth. This is still
on the young side with a quite primary character. But is shows more honey-notes, leafy notes and shows more evolved. Also typical
steely character of the vineyard. High and cleansing acidity. Long taste. Great wine.
Weingut von Othegraven
Kanzemer Altenberg 1er alte reben spätlese 2010
Quite elegant and slatey style on the nose. Fine depth. Some sweetness in the mouth with fine acidity. High and cleasing, but the
fruit and depth is there. Fine wine.
Ockfener Bockstein 1er riesling auslese 2010
Transparent and mineral nose. Slim auslese in the mouth. Young style. Citrusy, mineral fruit. Lots of stuff here and seems quite
cool in style for 2010. This might be interesting with time. Needs time to open up.
Kanzemer Altenberg riesling ausles 1975
Deep yellow colour. Petrol, minerality, stearin on the nose. Medium bodied and mature riesling auslese in the mouth. Lightly
yellowish fruits with fine minerality. Also some stearin, showing that this starts to get very old. Medium to good acids and length.
Good wine, more than great. Drink now.
Weingut Fritz Haag
Brauneberger riesling trocken 2010
Slatey, flowery nose. Sweetish. Dry and flowery in the mouth. Simple style. Lacks a little depth. Fine acidity and medium length.
Nice enough, but easygoing. Seems the depth is not there.
Brauneberger Juffer riesling trocken 2010
More minerality on the nose here. Snow, slate. Dry wine in the mouth. Prettier minerality and depth. Finer fruit. Also more acids
on the finish. Citrusy and dry finish. Very good.
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr riesling Grosses gewächs 2010
Straw colour. Sweeter, more flowery nose. Riper notes. Still fine minerality. Fuller dry riesling in the mouth. More flowery and
ripe fruit upfront. Minerality in the background. But it is there. Young. Fine acids. Bigger, but not much better than the previous
bottle. Very good wine.
Brauneberger Juffer riesling feinherb 2010
Simpler wine on the nose. Coarser and more earthy style. Minerality. Flowers. Sour-sweet riesling in the mouth. Quite dry. Fruit
is a bit coarse for this producer. Lacking a little the normal grace. High acids. Cleansing, citrusy finish.
Brauneberger riesling kabinett 2010
Sweeter fruit on the nose. Slate, flowers. Citrus. Sweeter in the mouth, still sweet-sour style. Flowery and citrusy fruit. Loads
of acid. Takes some of the fruit. Refreshing, but gets a little simplistic because of the acids.
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr riesling spätlese Erste lage 2010
A little riper on the nose. Flowery, slatey nose. Minerality. More power in the mouth. The fruit shows higher Oechsle-weight.
Riper fruit. Flowery, slightly yellowish fruits. igh acids. Citrusy, cleansing finish. Could have had more depth. Very good
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr riesling auslese 2010
Ripe fruits on the nose, some honey and botrytis. Quite massive wine in the mouth with loads of acids, making it taste slimmer
than it is. This is hard to taste. Ripe fruits, flowers. There is some botrytis there. Fine botrytis. Before the acids take over
for a citrusy and cleansing finish. What will this become?? Very good??
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr riesling spätlese 1985
Straw colour. Great nose. Evolved. Mineral, slate, petrol. Slim and acidic spätlese in the mouth. Clean style with fine
minerality. Medium concentration. Some petrol in the fruit. Fine acidity. Quite cleansing finish. Very good wine, more than great.
Drinking very fine now.
Weingut Reinhold Haart
Piesporter riesling 2010
Sweetish on the nose. Hints of blackcurrant, slate. Dry and simple wine in the mouth. Lightly sweetish fruits. Blackcurrant,
hints of slate. Not much depth. Fine acidity and length. Fair dry Mosel-riesling.
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen riesling Grosses gewächs 2010
More intense nose. Blackcurrant, leafs, slate, flowers. Riper and more sweetish mouthfeel. Shows more, but it is a lightly coarse
style. FIne acids and length. Good.
Piesporter Kreuzwingert riesling 2010
This shows more leafs on the nose and less blackcurrant. Slate. More minerality. Acidic riesling in the mouth. Dryish. Simplistic
in style. The acids take som of the fruit. Perhaps time will make it better.
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen riesling kabinett 2010
This shows more sulphure on the nose. Hints of blackcurrant, slate. Slim and acidic in the mouth. Citrusy fruit. It seems simpler in
style than the previous wine. Very high acids, perhaps taking some of the depth. Could be better with time. Good.
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen riesling spätlese 2010
Again sulphury on the nose. Hints of blackcurrant-leafs. Slate, minerality. Typical for the vineyard. Fuller wine in the mouth with
more fruit upfront. Again high acids and a refreshing style. But this has more depth and interest. Refreshing style. Citrusy
finish. Very good wine.
Ohligsberger riesling spätlese 2010
More slatey and mineral nose. Clearer and not as ripe. Slimmer in the mouth, yet a fullbodied spätlese for this vintage. Slatey
and mineral. Some white fruits. Fine fruit here. Good depth. High acids. Good length. This is very fine indeed. Very good.
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen riesling auslese 2010
Sweet-sour nose. Ripe fruits, slate minerality, some botrytis. Slim auslese in the mouth, yet a rich and ripe fruit. Fine
botrytis-notes. High acids that makes the wine taste slimmer than it is. Lots of concentration. Fine wine, but where will it go?
Very good.
Ohligsberger riesling spätlese 1991
Lightly smokey and mineral nose. Hints of blackcurrant and an earthy evolvement. Medium bodied riesling spätlese in the mouth.
Acidic and a bit slim in style. Citrusy fruit. But not as ripe as the '10s. Also not as concentrated. Good, more than great
Weingut Schloss Lieser
Schloss Lieser riesling spätlese trocken 2010
Flowery, slatey and lightly earthy nose. Fullbodied and dry Riesling in the mouth. Slatey, mineral. Some sweet flowers. Quite simple style. Decent acidity. Some alcohol on the finish. Good, but a bit on the simple side.
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling kabinett 2010
Pretty nose. Balsamic, flowery hints. Some slate. Slim and structured kabinett in the mouth with high acids. Refreshing citrusy taste. Lots of citrus, sweet flowers, some slate. Depth? Mostly about acids and refreshing qualities right now. Good.
Lieserer Niederberg-Helden riesling spälese 2010
Balsamic, flowery nose. More minerality on the nose. Slate-notes. Again a sweet spätlese in the mouth with very high and refreshing acids. Citrusy taste. This gives little right now. Everything is probably in there. Will this mellow and show the fruit with time? Possibly very good.
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling auslese goldkapsel 2010
Sweet flowery nose with lots of citrusy elements. Hints of botrytis, very fine botrytis. Some honey. Fullbodied in the motuh. Slight thickness and some botrytis, but the acids cuts in and gives the wine a slim and refreshing taste. There is some fine fruit here, but the acids are very high and overpowering right now. This can be great with time.
Lieserer Niederberg-Helden Riesling auslese lange goldkapsel 2010
Fine nose. ”Slim” and acidic on the nose. Slatey and mineral. Lots of citrus. Some honey and sweeter flowers. Fullbodied, rich and sweet attack in the mouth. Loads of acids, making the wine taste slimmer than it is. Fine minerality. Botrytis again very fine. There is some more depth here. Slate, minerality. High acids. Long citrusy finish. Great wine. Promising future.
Lieserer Niederberg-Helden Riesling auslese goldkapsel 1993
Pretty nose. Evolved and complex. Flowery, mineral style. Smokey hints. Fullbodied Riesling auslese in the mouth. Intense and mineral wine. Evolved. Fineacidity and balance with the sweetness. Great wine that seems ready now, but can still age.
Weingut Joh.Jos Prüm
Joh.Jos Prüm Riesling kabinett 2010
Sulphure, slate on the nose. Light and slim in the mouth with fine acids. Refrehsing taste and quite mineral in style. Fine little kabinett. Good, more than great.
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling spätlese 2010
Flowers, more minerality on the nose. Riper nose and less sulphure noticeable. Fullbodied in the mouth. Lightly tropical and typical Himmelreich, slightly on the rustic side. High acids. Good wine.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling spätlese 2010
More minerality on the nose here. Slate, sulphure. Prettier wine in the mouth with a fine minerality and slatey feel. Typical Prüm. Quite fullbodied and very refreshing style. Good length. Very good. One of the better efforts from Prüm in 2010.
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling auslese 2010
Nose quite like the spätlese. Tropical touches, some minerality showing. Richer style in the mouth. More power and sweetness. Riper. Finer acids. Good wine, but again slightly on the rustic side.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling auslese 2010
This shows more minerality on the nose compared to the Himmelreich auslese. Hints of slate, white fruits, snow. Quite fullbodied ’10 auslese in the mouth. Mineral approach. Fine fruit here. Fine acids. Long citrusy taste. Good Sonnenuhr, more than great. Perhaps not as impressive as the spätlese.
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling auslese goldkapsel 2010
A little shy on the nose. Some tropical elements. Citrus and botrytis. Powerful and quite thick auslese in the mouth. Rich style. Ripe fruits. Tropical, fine botrytis. Very high acids. Long citrusy finish. Hard to imagine how this will age. Perhaps the acids is too much.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling auslese goldkapsel 2010
This also shows sweet tropical elements on the nose. Bptrytis and slate. Rich in the mouth. Thick with fine botrytis-notes. But this is not as big as the Himmelreich. Prettier fruit with more minerality upfront. A lot riper fruits than the auslese. Tropical and fruity Sonnenuhr. High acids. Refreshing finish. Very good, but again where will this move. Ripe fruits and high acids.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling spätlese 2003
And now for something completely different. Tropical ripe fruits, evolved with hints of petrol, minerality. Fullbodied and quite fat Riesling in the mouth. A lot lower acids than all the previous wines. Seems dull in comparison. But it is probably not fair to compare it. The fruit is quite nice, but seems mature now. Good, more than great.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling auslese goldkapsel 2003
Some sulphure on the nose. Rich and ripe fruits. Honey and minerality. Perhaps not so intense. Rich fruit in the mouth. Concentrated, big and bold style for Prüm. Fine fruit for this vintage. Slatey, honeyed notes. Minerality and ripe fruits. Low acids. Good wine for this vintage. Still on the young side.
Weingut Willi Schaefer
Graacher Domprobst Riesling kabinett 2010
Lightly fruity, tropical nose. Hints of slate. Slim kabinett in the mouth. Lots of fruit, quite ripe and tropical. High acids. Refreshing and cleansing. Citrusy finish. Good, but perhaps lacking a little of the fineness this wine can have in other vintages.
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling auslese 2010
More intense nose with riper fruits. Tropical notes, ripe citrus –notes. Fuller in the mouth with some fatness. Quite fullbodied ’10 auslese. Fine fruit. Quite ripe. Tropical, but with slatey notes and some minerality. The very high acidity kicks in at the end and gives it a long citrusy finish. A lot more impressive than the kabinett. Great wine.
Graacher Domprobst Riesling auslese 2003
Riper tropical notes. Rich, but less intensity on the nose. Fullbodied and fatter wine in the mouth. Some evolvement. Fine fruit, but on the ripe side. Tropical, honeyed. Fine botrytis. Medium acids. Very good ’03 auslese.
Weingut Dr.H.Thanisch – erben Thanisch
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling kabinett 2010
Flowers and blackcurrant on the nose. A touch tobacco. Acidic, but well balanced kabinett in the mouth. Slim and pure. Fine fruit in the balance, showing typicity and style. Minerality, blackcurrant, flowers. Good kabinett from this difficult vintage for kabinetts.
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling spätlese 2010
More sulphure on the nose here. Flowery fruit. Light hints of blackcurrant. A little riper notes. More power and more acid in the mouth. The fruit is young and does not show more than the kabinett. Needs time.
Berncasteler Doctor Riesling auslese 2010
Clearly riper fruit here. More yellowish and tropical. Still hints of apples, slate, minerality. Fuller in the mouth, some thickness from the botrytis. Fine botrytis-notes. Fine fruit, although riper in style. Young. Acidity kicks in and gives it a citrusy refreshing finish. Good, but it is the kabinett that is the most impressive wine here.
Weingüter Geheimrat J.Wegeler
Bernkasteler Doctor riesling spätlese 2010
Slate and apples on the nose. Fullbodied ’10 spätlese in the mouth with lower acids. Rounder styler here. The fruit seems simpler and lacking depth. Apples and slate-notes. Not as exciting. Fine acids, good length.
Bernkasteler Doctor riesling auslese 2010
More yellow fruits, honey, some slate. Tropical elements. Rich wine in the mouth with riper fruits and more acidity. Better depth in the fruit. Slate, minerality underneath the riper elements. Higher acids, better length. Young and not giving very much right now. We will see with time. Very good.
Bernkasteler Doctor riesling auslese goldkapsel 2004
Smokey, slatey nose. Much more open and ready for business. Undermature fruit, mineral leafy. Round and kind wine in the mouth with fine acidity. Not a big auslese and not the most interesting Doctor around, but nice stuff. Seems ready now.
Bernkasteler Doctor riesling auslese goldkapsel 1997
Smokey, bacon-notes, some honey. Lightly thick and big auslese in the mouth. A lot bigger than the ’04. It also has a very fine fruit with more depth. Complex and obvious Doctor-ntoes of smokiness and some bacon. Clear and precise style. Medium acids and length. This is singing now. Great Doctor from Wegeler.
The tasting shows 2010 is a difficult vintage. Not only in the making, but also a difficult vintage to predict its future. The
wines shows ripe fruits and record-high acids. For many of the wines the acid is so high that to me it takes some of the depth of
the fruit. Acid never fades with time, but it do taste softer. What will happen then? Many of the wines also have been de-acidified.
It seems to remove some of the depth of the fruit. To me this will be a vintage where judgements will have to wait a couple of years,
but mostly I am not that optimistic. There are exceptions. Egon Müller has put out a remarkably strong vintage from bottom to top.
Also Schloss Lieser and Reinhold Haart has a good selection, especially among the top wines.
Arnt Egil Nordlien
Tasting notes: Sep-11
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