In the end of September we visited Martin Müllen for an extensive tasting of his 2010-vintage. Martin Müllen always makes
uncompromising wines that each year reflects the vintage and soil. 2010 was a difficult vintage with high ripeness and very high
acids. A year that gave the winemakers a tough job in making the right grape-selecions for the right cuvee. Even in a vintage like
this Martin Müllens philosophy is very present in the wines. The result are uncompromising wines and in a year like 2010 that means
tough wines full of acidity. They are great examples of the vintage and indeed some excellent wines have been made this year.
Kröver Paradies riesling kabinett trocken 2010
Only 10,5% alc/vol. A leicht wine. Yellow apples and minerality on the nose. Light and acidic in the mouth. Dry and citrusy with high acids. Pretty and clear fruit, slightly on the green side. A nice mineral touch. Good.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg riesling kabinett trocken 2010
Also 10,5% alc/vol. Nice to see some dry wines with such low alcohol in this vintage. Green flowers and more complex minerality on the nose. Better depth. A little more power in the mouth. Slightly more ripeness. Citrusy, appley fruit. Hühnerberg-minerality with fine depth. Long citrusy finish. Better than the Paradies. Good.
Kröver Paradies riesling spätlese* trocken 2010
12,0% alc/vol. Riper on the nose. Sweet flowery hints. Quince and minerality. Some green leafy hints and minerality. More power in the mouth. Pretty fruit with riep flowers and minerality. Dry style with almost 10 g/L acids. Tough wine, but it has its own balance. Citrusy finish. Very good dry Mosel-riesling. I like this style.
Kröver Paradies riesling spätlese** trocken 2010
12,5% alc/vol. More minerality on the nose. Again some green leafy hints and sweet flowery hints. This has better depth. Fullbodied and dry riesling in the mouth. Acidic and citrusy style. Young, citrusy fruit. Mineral finish. Fine wine that is on the young side now. Needs five years. Perhaps not much more interesting than the one star.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg riesling spätlese* trocken 2010
Again quite greenish leafy hints on the nose. Flowers, a touch of apricot and fine minerality. Fullbodied and better concentration in the mouth. Minerality, flowers in the fruit. Fine depth. The most interesting wine among the trockens. High acids, yet it seems natural and well-integrated. Citrusy long finish. Very good dry Mosel-riesling from 2010.
Trabener Würzgarten riesling spätlese** trocken 2010
Typical spicey Würzgarten-hints with its more aromatic profile. Lightly fruity and flowery notes. Fullbodied, again aromatic and spicey in the mouth. Appealing and clear style. Lots of fruit. But simpler style with less depth. Great acidic zip. Good length. A very fine Trabener Würzgarten. Very good.
Trabener Würzgarten riesling spätlese trocken 2009
Again the same typical spicey aromatic profile. More quince and apples on the nose. Some spontaneous hints. Some leafy hints. Rounder and fatter in the mouth. Fine fruit. Spicey, aromatic. Again simple fruit, but some complexity from the long spontaneous fermentation. Medium acids. Much rounder and kinder style. Good length. Very good. A tad better than the ’10.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg riesling spätlese* trocken 2009
Even more hints of spontaneous fermentation on the nose. Yellow fruits. Apricot, fine minerality. This is also more powerful and rounder and kinder in the mouth. Creamy and fine fruit. Great depth. Mineral and complexity from the fermentation. Medium acids. Good length. Very good dry riesling.
Trabener Würzgarten riesling kabinett 2010
Sour-sweet and aromatic nose. Spicey hints. Lots of flowers, some citrus. Sour-sweet also in the mouth. It has quite some residual sugars, but the acids are overpowering. Citrusy and spicey fruit. Flowers. Simple and clear style. Good length. Citrusy finish. Fair quality.
Kröver Paradies riesling spätlese*** 2010
More shy on the nose. Much more minerality. Leafy and flowery notes. Fullbodied and again sour-sweet riesling in the mouth with a good dose of residual sugar and lots of acid. The acidity wins the balancing-act. 12 g/L of acidity. Fruity style. Fne fruit with a light minerality showing. Interesting, but a tad simple in the mouth right now. How much better will it be with time? Possibly a great wine.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg riesling spätlese* 2010
Riper fruits on the nose. Sour-sweet. Flowers, citrus, exotic fruits. Quince. Also fine minerality. Fullbodied and more concentration here. More residual sugar noticeable. Also very high acids. Balance is finer here. The numbers says 7,0% alc/vol, 12 g/L acid and 80 g/L residual sugar. Clear and pretty fruit that shows light botrytis-notes. Ripe exotic fruits, citrus and fine minerality. Young and interesting. Long refreshing finish. Great wine and one of my favorites of the tasting.
Kröver Kirchlay riesling auslese 2010
More botrytis here. But clear and fine. Hints of citrus, flowers, leafy notes. Minerality. Slim auslese in the mouth. Light fatness from the botrytis and lots of residual sugars. But crisp and acidic balance which makes it tastes slim. A lot slimmer and quite a contrast to the ’09-version of this wine tasted last year. Fine fruit. Clear and citrusy. Hints of flowers, some minerality. High acids and good length. Very good wine.
Kröver Letterlay riesling auslese 2010
More citrus-notes on the nose. Fruity. Hints of botrytis and apricot. Some minerality. Sour-sweet in the mouth. Seems more powerful as the acidity is a little softer here – as it normally is in the Letterlay. This means the fatness from the botrytis is more noticeable and makes the wine taste bigger. Fruit is fine. Clear and fruity in style. Simpler than the Kirchlay with a light minerality. Fine and refreshing acids. A little more dry-extract on the finish. Very good.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg riesling auslese 2010
More sweetness on the nose. Tropical fruits, citrus and flowers. More eiswein-like riesling both on the nose and in the mouth. This is sour-sweet with lots of concentration and very high acidity. Tropical and ripe aromatics. Some botrytis, but very clear. Citrus-notes. Minerality. Fine fruit. The acidity seems very high and with an eiswein-like zip. But the numbers says it is 11,5 g/L. So technically not higher than several of the previous wines. Long refreshing taste. Great wine that is very young.
Kröver Paradies riesling auslese** 2010
The nose here is less ripe with flowery and more leafy components. This is normal for this vineyard as it is northwest-faced. Also a lot of botrytis. Sweeter in the mouth than the previous auslesen. Botrytis and fatness showing upfront in the mouth. Still this seems slim and refreshing due to the high acidity that kicks in. Fine style, flowery and finer balanced fruit. Not as ripe. But also very young and tight. This does not show as much. Needs time? Or is it simpler? Fine and refreshing acids. Long taste. Very good, possibly great wine. Give it time.
Kröver Letterlay riesling beerenauslese 2010
Pretty and flowery nose. Quite perfumed. Floral high-notes. Citrus and fruits. Powerful and lots of fatness upfront. Shows its botrytised side. But the botrytis is very clear and transparent. Fruity style and a mild acidity for the vintage. Appealing fruit, but simple in style. Again lots of botrytis-notes. Mild acids for this vintage. Still nice and refreshing finish. Long taste. Very good.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg riesling beerenauslese 2010
Shows apricot, botrytis, flowers and honey on the nose. Fruity and clear, but lots of botrytis. Slim beerenauslese in the mouth. Lots of fatness and botrytis upfront, but the very high acids makes it taste slim. Flowery fruit. Eiswein-like intensity. Minerality showing. Darker mineral notes. This is powerful and concentrated in the mouth. Also here lots of botrytis-notes in the fruit. Quite open and appealing wine right now. Great BA.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg riesling beerenauslese* 2010
Great nose. Finer with more botrytis showing. Fruity-flowery hints. Complex. Even more powerful in the mouth. Loads of botrytis, still with an eiswein-like intensity. Fatness from the botrytis, but it is so superclear and transparent this remains a fruity BA. Citrusy and tropical hints. Minerality. More concentration and more fruit here. Young and citrusy. Long refreshing finish with very high acids showing. 14 g/L acidity. Great BA that needs time in the cellar.
Arnt Egil Nordlien
Tasting note: Sep-11
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