This is a round-up of other notes and impressions from our trip to Saale-Unstrut and Mosel September-2007. The three days in
Saale-Unstrut was a visit to try to learn about the region as a wine-area. We visited the three most well-known producers, but also
tasted several other wines. During the GDR-time there were only two allowed producers in the area; Landesweingut Kloster Pforta and
Winzervereinigung Freyburg. The latter is a cooperative founded in 1934, who was allowed to continue to make wine during the
communist-period.
We had a short stop by Kloster Pforta and did taste through a few wines very fast. The impression it gave us were that the wines
of Kloster Pforta today is simply not very good. In fact the wines we tasted were the poorest we tasted on this visit to Saale-Unstrut.
There is a total lack of focus and several wines tasted almost unclean and poorly made. This is very unfortunate for the region as
Kloster Pforta is a large producer that controls what is potensially some of the best vineyards. Here are two notes:
Gosecker Dechantenberg silvaner auslese feinherb 2000, Kloster Pforta
There is no doubt a good potensial in this wine as there is some interesting minerality showing. Unfortunately the making is not
very inspiring. Lightly golden/brownish colour. The nose is flowery with a lot of minerality showing. No doubt good depth here. But
also hints of apricot and some volatile acids. Unfortunately not very cleanly made. In the mouth this is a fullbodied silvaner in
an off-dry style. There is a good concentration and again there is some very fine minerality here. But the fruit is rather coarse
and rustic with again a noticable touch of VA and hints of earth. The acidity is a bit low in the balance. Some citrus in the
finish. This was nonetheless the best wine we tasted from Kloster Pforta.
Grossjenaer Blütengrund Andre QbA trocken 2005, Kloster Pforta
Andre is a grape that is grown somewhat in the Saale-Unstrut. It is a grape in which it's i>wild acidity and tannins needs to be
tamed. This wine has a deep red colour. Nose shows some red fruits like cherries and currant. In the mouth this wine is sour, thin
and lacking fruit. What is there shows a simple cherryish fruit. Very acidic and unbalanced taste. Some tannins in the finish.
Not good.
We also visited the Winzervereinigung Freyburg and did a short tasting of a few wines. The impression here was a lot better. The wines
were in fact quite nice:
Höhnstedter Kelterberg grauburgunder auslese lieblich 2006, Winzervereinigung Freyburg
This is a fine grauburgunder made in a sweet but structured style. Straw colour. The nose shows grape-typical notes of banana and
flowers. Also fine hints of spice and a light oakiness and hints of botrytis. In the mouth this shows a more young flowery fruit. It
is a sweet and fullbodied auslese with decent concentration of fruit. The wine has been given a gentle oaking which gives it a
slight fatness in the fruit. The acidity here is high for this grape and gives the wine a slimness in the structure. Good length.
A couple of other notes from wines we drank in Saale-Unstrut:
Naumburger Steinmeister grüner silvaner qualitätswein feinherb 2006, Weingut Herzer
Light straw colour. The wine shows a lightly spicy nose with fresh and underripe leafy and flowery notes and a touch of minerality.
In the mouth this is off-dry and medium bodied. The fruit is more flowery with fine hints of minerals and a light spice. Not too
much depth. More nice and easy-going style. The acidity is quite crisp for this grape giving the finish a light citrusy note.
Medium length. Good everyday-wine.
Kaatschener Dachsberg weissburgunder spätlese trocken 2005, Thüringer weingut Zahn
Light straw colour. The nose is citrusy with hints of flower, balsam and steel. Light and acidic weissburgunder in the mouth. Slim
and not the most concentrated spätlese. Highly citrusy fruit. Hints of cold steel. But lacking any depth. Good acidity for this
grape and medium length with some citrus in the finish. Decent, but uninteresting wine.
The Saale-Unstrut is a region where there is made a lot of sekt. The most widespread is probably the Rotkäppchen that nowadays
is very often seen on hotels and unpretensious restaurants and bars across at least most of Europe. It is a very uninspiring and
forgettable sekt, but fairly made and clean. More serious is the Naumburger Wein & sekt manufaktur that makes quite decent sparklers
that does not at all remind about Champagne.
Von der Henne blanc de noir brut Prestige royal sekt 2002, Naumburger Wein & Sekt Manufaktur
This was a nice sparkler that had a little sweet flowery fruit. More Franciacorta-like than Champagne-like. Straw colour. Medium
bubbles. The nose is a bit sweet with hints of flowers, some minerality, citrus sligh oak and a nice depth. The mousse is not the
finest, but fair. It is a fullbodied sparkler in the mouth with good concentration. Again a little sweet and flowery fruit. But
there is some depth and fine minerality here. Good acidity and quite refreshing style. Good.
So to some wines we had while in Mosel. The first day we arrived we went to Phillip Veser and had dinner. Present was amongst others
Jean Fisch and Charlie Gierling. I only wrote a few notes and we also left a little early being tired after the long drive.
Graacher Domprobst riesling auslese 1997, Willi Schaefer AP:14/98
This had a yellow colour. The fine nose showed a typical Schaefer with lots of fruity notes, quite tropical, some flowers, citrus
and a light botrytis. Also some moer evolved elements like petrol. Fullbodied and quite sweet auslese in the mouth. Again fruity and
tropical. Some development, but still a wine on the young and fruity side. The structure is great with a fine and refreshing acidity.
Long taste. This was just a very good and refreshing wine.
Collio Tocai Friulano 1979, Mario Schiopetto
Yellow colour with lightly brownish hints. The nose is smokey with hints of dried flowers, wool and earth. Fullbodied and dry in the
mouth with surprisingly much fruit left. Dried flowers and smoke with some wool and earthiness. Quite rustic styled. Medium acidity
and length. Not as clean as previous bottles. Still good and very interesting and so full of life that I don't think it will fade
for years yet.
Bernkasteler Doctor riesling auslese goldkapsel 1995, Dr.H Thanisch - erben Thanisch, AP: 2 96
Complex smokey nose. Hints of tobacco, slightly underripe leafy notes and botrytis. In the mouth this is sweet and the fruit is more
closed. It shows some fruit and fat at first. Hints of smoke, tobacco and flowers. Medium acidity and gets a little thinner on the
finish. With time the acidity shows a little better and the wine gets some better length. Still I would hold this wine for another
3-5 years. Best on the nose this day. Very good potensial.
While in Mosel a visit to the Restaurant Kabinett in alt Piesport is obligatory. As usual we ended up drinking an older
Goldtröpfchen from Bollig-Lehnert.
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen riesling auslese*** 1990, Weingut Bollig-Lehnert
This is a mature riesling in an old-fashioned rustic style. But with a great depth. Yellow-brownish colour. Fine nose a bit on the
rustic side, but great depth. Hints of petrol, blackcurrant, flowers, minerality, old wood. Fullbodied riesling in the mouth, sweet
but mellowed sweetness. Seems quite mature now with evolved fruit, typical Goldtröpfchen with some fat, hints of blackcurrant,
flowers and a fine minerality. Also some old woods and citrus on the finish. Not the most structured of the 90's with medium acidity
and length. Drink now.
Kröver Steffensberg riesling auslese 2006, Ingmar Püschel
So to a last note on a wine we tasted together with Daniel Vollenweider. This is made by a new winemaker that in 2006 owned 0,1 Ha.
of vines in the Kröver Steffensberg, for the 2007-vintage he ownes 0,5 Ha. Ingmar Püschel is a musician but is determined to start
making wine instead. From the wine we tasted there is no doubt that he is dedicated to making wines of a high quality. The wine
shows a great and floral nose with hints of roses, underripe leafs and slight earth and minerals. It is a fullbodied, sweet auslese
in the mouth true to this vintage. But there is a fine balance with a good structure balancing the wine with fine acidity and some
dry extract showing on the finish. The fruit is clear, flowery and with a touch of botrytis. This is a great wine from 2006 and
Ingmar Püschel will be a name to watch out for in the future.
Arnt Egil Nordlien
notes: Sep-07