The Undhof was once part of the Capuchin monastery Und. Here it served as a farm building. After the secularization it got
separated from the monastery and in 1792 became the property of the Salomon family. The wines from this estate got especially
famous during the period of Fritz Salomon (1905-1971) who was a pinoer in the making of natural dry wines in the Krems and Wachau.
During this period Salomon Undhof built their reputation beyond the local market and was the first to start export to other
countries in Europe and USA. Erich Salomon took over the estate in 1971. His younger brother Bertold also got involved with
winemaking and established his own domaine Salomon Estate in South Australia. But in 2002 Erich Salomon got ill with cancer and
wanted Bertold to come home and take over the old family estate. Bertold and his Australian wife Gertrud decided to do move to
Austria. Today they run two estates, Salomon-Undhof in Austria and Salomon Estate in Australia. Luckily Bertold and Gertrud have
two children who wants to be part of the wine-business.
Bertold and Gertrud Salomon was in Oslo presenting their wines. I found Bertolds views on winemaking to be refreshingly pragmatic
in a wine-world where often the method is the main goal. As he said he would mostly like to do spontaneous fermentations. Most
often this happened, a few times not. He did not really like to interfere and temperature-control the fermentation, but as he said
he did not like temperature to be too high, so most often there was some. When it came to sulfur he only measured free sulfur and
wanted bottles to have 35-40 ppm of free sulfur. The wines are typical to the Kremstal/Wachau-area. More modern now then 20 years
ago, but still in a clear style displaying the origins. The Pfaffenberg-site is indeed their best site.
We tasted a range of wine with different ge on them. Bertold had picked the vintages to show contradictions from both hot and cold
years.
Grüner Veltliner Wachtberg 2010
Wachtberg is a vineyard in Krems. This is a refreshing style of GV. Young, fresh and aromatic fruit on the nose. Fine florality, perhaps slightly tutti-fruttish and a fine spicey note. Medium bodied, refreshing and fine acidity in the mouth. Simpler style, but very well made.
Grüner veltliner von Stein reserve 2009
After the cool 2010, comes this warmer 2009. Yellow colour. More typical spicey GV-notes, apricot and yellow fruits on the nose. More minerality. Light botrytis-note. Powerful GV in the mouth. Rich and spicey fruit. Fine depth and interesting wine. Medium acidity. Alcohol quite high on the finish. Good.
Grüner veltliner von Stein reserve 2005
This has a finer balance to met han the ’09. It is more aged and showing a lot of complexity. Spicey, mineral notes. Flowers. Cleaner fruit in the mouth. Not as full as the ’09, cooler and more acid-driven mouthfeel. Indeed a fine acidity giving refreshing qualities to the quite powerful GV. Good length and the alcohol better balanced on the finish. Great wine.
Riesling Undhof Kögl Erste lage 2010
Kögl is a vineyard in Krems. Light colour. Young, flowery Riesling on the nose. Lightly undermature style. Clear and bright. Very fine and refreshing Riesling in the mouth. Medium weight. Acid-driven and bright Riesling. Refreshing with young fruit. Good acidity. Good length. A very nice and refreshing Riesling. On the young side. Very good.
Riesling Kögl Erste lage 2003
From a much hotter year. This shows more colour. The nose is evolved. Fine minerality. Some anise. Ripe, round and mild riesling in the mouth. Drier on the finish with more pronounced tannins – this drier feel gives a better balance to the wine. Fine ’03, but the 2010 is better.
Riesling Kögl 1991
One might call this leafy and undermature. Yet this is so complex and mineral on the nose. Hints of citrus, flowers, quince. Great depth. This has evolved very nicely indeed. Medium bodied riesling in the mouth. Acid-driven and undermature style. Citrusy fruit. Fine minerality. Refreshing acids and good length. This must be a great food-wine. Great wine and my favorite of the Kögls.
Riesling Kögl 1969
Orange spice and apricot on the nose. Another Riesling from a hot year. Some petrol, minerality. Round and kind Riesling in the mouth. Low acids for this grape. Fruit has held up nicely, but fully mature now. Some citrusy notes on the finish. Medium length. Very good wine, but I prefer the ’91. Drink now.
Riesling Pfaffenberg reserve 2009, Metternich & Salomon
Made in collaboration with Metternich. When Salomon had the opportunity to get hold of this producers grape from the Pfaffenberg,
they decided to also put the name on the label. Pfaffenberg is a vineyard in Stein. Soil is a mix of granite and gneiss. This is
obviously more mineral on the nose. Light hints of sweetish flowers. Apricot, light botrytis. Fullbodied riesling in the mouth. Yet
fine acidity and structure. There’s some more residual sugar here, but not noticeable. The botrytis also blends well in the mouth.
Mineral-driven fruit. Some riper notes and some flowers. Good acidic backbone and good length. Great wine from this hot vintage.
Needs time.
Riesling Pfaffenberg 1996
Lightly evolved colour. Pretty nose. Again very mineral. Fine fruit. Some honey, botrytis. Dried style in the mouth. Citrusy, mineral fruit. Great depth. Pure and clear Pfaffenberg. Fine acidic zip. Long citrusy finish. Great wine and my favourite of the day. Drinks well now, will keep.
Riesling Pfaffenberg 1970
Deep yellow colour. Honey on the nose. Minerality. A little more earthy style. Round and kind wine in the mouth. Light sweetness. Complex and aged fruit. Earthy elements. Some minerality and honey-notes. Very mature. Medium acidity and a bit short on the finish. Interesting and still good wine, but this is starting to get very old.
Arnt Egil Nordlien
Tasting note: May-11
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