Tasting
Daniel Vollenweiders 2002-vintage
I did the
tasting with Daniel two times. First time from newly opened
bottles. The second time two days later from the same
bottles. The wines showed more fruit in the second tasting. Particularely the feinherb and the Spätlese (AP #03). Daniel
is not allowed from the government any longer to use the parcel-names on the
labels. But he has made small round stickers which he puts on the neck and
hopes to get away with this.
Wolfer
Goldgrube riesling spätlese trocken 2002
This was from
a single parcel. But I can not remember which one. A
slightly spicy nose. A bit powerful entrance in the
mouth with acidic finish. Vollenweider first trocken riesling
is decent but a rustic effort and IMO not on par with his other wines.
Wolfer Goldgrube riesling
spätlese Feinherb 2002
As with the 2001-vintage this is from the Koblay-parcel in the
goldgrube. 10% alcohol. Fine mineral nose. On
the second tasting this showed more fruity. Elegant mouthfeel. Slight sweetness.
Great balance. Good concentration. This is a good wine
and on par with the 2001.
Wolfer
Goldgrube riesling Spätlese 2002 (AP #3)
There are two ”standard” spätlesen from Vollenweider this year. The AP #4 and AP #3. The #4 is from a blend of parcels. The
#3 is all from the original Goldgrube-parcel. According to Vollenweider the #3
is a far better wine. We did not taste the #4 as it was sold out. There is no ”neck-sticker” on these bottlings. So the only way to
separate them is the AP.
The #3 had an exotic and fruity nose. Sweet but greatly balanced in the mouth. Slightly spritzy and long. Perhaps a bit simple on day one. On the second tasting this showed considerably more complex and broader in the fruit with more leafy notes and mineral. Very good wine indeed.
Wolfer
Goldgrube riesling spätlese Portz 2002
From the Portz-parcel. This showed a bit closed, but had some of the same sweet and leafy nose
with mineral notes as last years version. In the mouth
it is rich sweet but with a great acidic finish. A bit unintegrated at this
time. Needs time. Will be very good indeed and one of
Daniels most interesting selections.
Wolfer
Goldgrube riesling spätlese Padauer 2002
A new parcel-bottling this year. The Padauer is the richest and most exotic of
the bottlings. It also had the highest degree of Oechsle. The nose is very
fruity and tropical. In the mouth it is a big wine, but with good structure. Fruity styled and a bit more one-dimensional.
Wolfer
Goldgrube riesling spätlese Reiler 2002
Another new
parcel-bottling and Daniel’s favourite of the spätlesen. I have to agree. Even broader nose than the Portz with more minerals. In the
mouth it is the most structured wine with great acidic finish. Complex and perhaps a bit more leafy and mineral than the Portz.
Already a great glass of wine now and will last long.
We did a
tasting of the auslese, although Daniel Vollenweider has withdrawn this from
the market. Daniel is highly satisfied with his spätlesen from the
2002-vintage, but not at all with the higher prädikats. The auslese is
extremely sulphury on the tasting. A bit raisiny character
and showing a lot of botrytis. Sweet in the mouth, but mostly this is
sulphur. Perhaps things will change with cellaring?? Daniel also said he
vinified some higher prädikats, but acids dropped as low as even under 4 g/L.
of acidity. So they have never been planned released.
But there is very good
reasons to try and obtain some bottles of the Spätlesen. They are very
good indeed and all are recommended by me, perhaps with the exception of the
trocken. Another good thing for Vollenweider is that his wines are starting to
get sought after. The 2002-wines are already sold out and today he could sell
far more wine than he makes.
© Arnt Egil
Nordlien, 2003